First of all I have a good fitting sloper obtained with Karen's help. And I have drafted & sewn a mock up of a jacket that I'm pleased with. Trousers too have been well fitting.
But I am trying to draft a darted sleeveless top using the classic bodice in PMB. The actual front pattern piece bust area measured on screen & the printed out version are both about 2"- 3" bigger than the dimensions summary which would be correct using the ease amount I selected. The waist & hip measurements with ease are as they should be. I've tried reducing my actual bust measurement but I'm still not getting a decent fit. Also the arm depth is far greater than the '0' drop I inputted - I then started using a minus measurement for the arm depth but the pattern is still lower than I would like. I've done several mock ups & none of them come close to the top I would like. In fact I'm on the verge of trying a bought pattern & merging the two if I can't get this right. Please can you offer any suggestions.
Edited to add summary sent.
But I am trying to draft a darted sleeveless top using the classic bodice in PMB. The actual front pattern piece bust area measured on screen & the printed out version are both about 2"- 3" bigger than the dimensions summary which would be correct using the ease amount I selected. The waist & hip measurements with ease are as they should be. I've tried reducing my actual bust measurement but I'm still not getting a decent fit. Also the arm depth is far greater than the '0' drop I inputted - I then started using a minus measurement for the arm depth but the pattern is still lower than I would like. I've done several mock ups & none of them come close to the top I would like. In fact I'm on the verge of trying a bought pattern & merging the two if I can't get this right. Please can you offer any suggestions.
Edited to add summary sent.